LINK TO RACING PIGEONS

LINK TO RACING PIGEONS
LINK TO RACING PIGEONS

Saturday 20 July 2019

CLEANING YOUR LOFT


CLEANING DOWN YOUR LOFT


One of the frequently ignored parts of pigeon keeping is the cleanliness of your pigeons. In this article we'll take a gander at a truly standard way to clean your pigeon space area Such as Rest Spots (Perches and Nesting Boxes).

The point of this is to be a beginning stage, don't hesitate to design your own daily or Weekly practice and include/change things to suit your Pigeons needs as to Place None flyers into another section If they are not ok to be let out. Some breeders Never or seldom let out their Breeders.

1. Allow the Pigeons out for their Daily Fly and Make it on a day that you Bath them so they can relax and sit in the sun and spend a few hours out side.

Give the pigeons a chance to Rome out for a fly and let them return while you're cleaning so they know what your doing their they love to watch you..

  1. Scrape and clean out each home from the top perch to the bottom perch as it will drop on the floor.
  2. Breeding boxes start to finish from the top to the bottom ones.

  3. Clickbank Guide & Tools

Try not to take any alternate routes with this, illness causing creatures like Mites breed in here just as your pigeons do!

Make sure to take out the home dishes/ Water Containers and put them to the other side for cleaning. It is a good idea to soak them in a disinfected bucket and let them soak for a while.

Scratch out the containers to clear any droppings, triangle scrubbers are very useful for this as they enable you to put the scrubber appropriate to the back of the case and draw forward in one movement straight into a receptacle. Do likewise with perches.

3. Scratch the floor area if you need to as other parasites do breed on the dropping and feathers on the ground.

Presently observe to the segment and passage floors, scratch away any droppings. Utilize a long handle scrubber to spare your back.

4. Hoover (Vacuum) (once a month) This is to Get most of the Lint Fluff small feathers or Flakes off the ground with the dust.

Utilizing a hoover circumvent the floor, dividers, boxes, and any surfaces, searching for residue, hard droppings, bits of plumes, webs and so forth, get everything straight out with the hoover. At the point when the space is exceptionally dusty the exact opposite thing you need to do is catch up on every one of the particles into the air. Depending on what number of pigeons you have you may choose to do this fair once/two times per month.

5. Clean ( Every Week or Two) This All Depends How Large You Loft Is.

The following thing is to sterilize the your loft. Stir up some disinfectant, for example, Disinfectant and utilizing it in a spry bottle 5-10 liters would be ideal, Give the Breeding boxes, Perches, floors and even divided and good Spray and make sure they are wet.. Try to evan it out and you need an even coat all through.

Leave that to absorb and get dry. Once more, this should be possible once/two times per month in many cases.

6. Light Cleaning (Once Per Week) This will make it easy for the big clean.
Once you have disinfected the Breeding Boxes and your Perches Scrap off the soggy and wet dropping,and ready to place it in a bag for disposal. May it be in the Bin or Garden.

Be mindful Not to breath in any vapors, It is advisable to wear a mask as they are a cheap in your hardware as like Bunning's.

7. Treatment and Extra cover( 3-4 Months Apply treatment for Mites and any other bugs that may come around I use Mellow-wash or another strong Insecticide. Same as the Disinfectant Leave to dry well Before returning the Pigeons Back into the Loft.

At long last, since the space is spotless, circulated and the Pesticide is Sprayed, You Can also use Kerosene for a long lasting effect on the off chance treatment may be placed down and tenderly brush it on. This stuff resembles a baby powder disinfectant and just keeps things dry while forestalling the spread of microorganisms.

If your Not Sure on Step 7 Please Don't Use it. I am Sure I have Done This for Years.

8. Last but not least after waiting a few hours Let your Pigeons Back into their freshly Cleaned Loft.

BUILDING A SMALL AVIARY


CLICK HERE TO SEE MORE

                         
I want to talk to you about new guide I came across called 'How To Build An Aviary'.

It details step-by-step how to build your very own aviary. I know some of you have been considering this so I recommend you check it out.

Inside you'll discover:

- How to save 80% on building costs and several hundred dollars along the way

- Aviary designs for large, small, triangular, indoor, outdoor, breeding rooms and more

- The 5 most common aviary building mistakes and how to avoid them

- Everything you need to know about heating and aviary temperature control

- Breeding secrets - how to raise chicks and grow your own flock

- Plus much more...

If you're a serious bird fancier then I highly recommend it. There's even more material available at his website.

You can go view the material here right now at:

HOW TO BUILD AN AVIARY

READ MORE

I wanted to take a few minutes and tell you about a new book that bird fanciers around the world are discovering, it unlocks the secrets to building your own aviary, at a fraction of the price.

This new aviary building book gives you detailed step-by-step plans and designs for constructing aviaries that will last for years to come. It'll even save you a couple of hundred dollars in construction materials in the process... but that's really only a side benefit.

You learn how to easily build bird cages and bird rooms... plus tips on heating, temperature control, predator protection and ventilation methods.

AND you'll learn how to build nest boxes, so you can breed your birds if you choose to do so.

Anyway, I won't go into all of what "How To Build An Aviary" can do for you, but you can visit the web link below and find out more about the easiest and fastest way of constructing your very own aviary.

If the testimonials at the website don't get you interested, I don't know what will.

Anyway, visit below to have a look at material. Enjoy!

HAVE A LOOK HERE

READ MORE

Readers of my website are always asking me where they can find a step-by-step guide on aviary construction.

I always answer with: "pretty much anywhere!"

It's true - there are tons of websites on aviary building, by a variety of so-called "experts".

The problem is that there is so much conflicting information and advice out there on the topic of aviary construction, that it's hard to know where to turn or who to trust.

There is one book, however, that I fully recommend. It has helped me in the past to build my own aviary and so I know it can help others as well.

It's called "How To Build An Aviary":

In it, you'll find literally everything you need to know about how to build an aviary, by yourself, on the cheap.

Here's some of what you'll discover inside the book:

* Multiple aviary plans available including: large, medium and small aviary. Also, bird rooms, nesting boxes and breeding cages.

* Easy to build – clear, colored, step-by-step designs provide you with all the measurements and instructions you need – it’s idiot proof.

* No skill required – this is aimed at absolute beginners. You only need the most basic of tools and no existing carpentry skills.

* Cut Costs - building an aviary can save you up to 80% over buying a new one. This can amount to hundreds (sometimes thousands) of dollars saved.

* Print on demand – it’s provided in a downloadable format so you can print as many copies as you wish. If your copy gets damaged or you lose it, you’re allowed to make a new one.

* Both Indoors & Out – you get plans & and designs for building both indoor and outdoor aviaries and bird rooms, so take your pick.

* Plus much more!

What I also like about the book is the price.

It's only $27, but it's saved me hundreds in constructions costs. Plus I didn't want to spend thousands buying an overpriced aviary assembly kit either.

My newsletter goes out to hundreds of people each and every month, so I know my reputation is on the line whenever I recommend something - but this is one of those resources that I'm excited to stand behind.

Not only this, You can Expand onto your New Aviary or Just Build it Larger With the same Design, Really it's Not that hard to do.


GET YOUR BOOK NOW ON HOW TO BUILD A GREAT AVIARY.


DISEASES



MY RACE PIGEON CONTRACTED A DISEASES AND IS ILL.



These are just a sample of What Pigeon Diseases that you will confront while Racing Pigeons.

Don't be nihilistic and think that your birds will not get ill and sick and may even die from a disease.

There are many reasons why your Racing Pigeons can get ill, Rain Water getting into your loft and dropping are getting wet. Food is Getting wet which can cause Canker, Droppings in youR Pigeon Water or Food.

Think about it Would you eat and Drink if some one or some other animal passed on your plate.?

Other than that Other peoples pigeons are not the healthiest and may very well be infected, other out door birds such as Starlings/Sparrows/the common Pigeon and dove may also carry the disease with them.

I will start with some common diseases in pigeons, I positive that in your time of owning pigeons that you will come across one or the other.

If at any stage you wold like to dig dipper into the disease I have provided a Link to under SOURCE WEBSITE.

Trichomonas gallinae is a cosmopolitan parasite of pigeons and doves. Other birds such as domestic and wild turkeys, chickens, raptors (hawks, golden eagle, etc.) may also become infected. The disease in pigeons is commonly called canker. The same condition in birds of prey is called frounce.

Trichomoniasis is caused by infection with the parasitic protozoa Trichomonas gallinae. This protozoa has variable pathogenicity (ability to cause disease). Transmission of the protozoa is by bird to bird contact or by contact with infected litter, such as grit and sand and through their feed or water.

SOURCE

You can search a lot of Information on Google for more photos and information on sick pigeons for their prevention and treaments.


How do you treat cankers in pigeons?

  • Flagyl (Metronidazole) 20% Powder. Water soluble treatment for canker - available in 100 grams. ...
  • Metronidazole Tablets 60 mg. Treat birds individually for canker. ...
  • Canker Max. ...
  • Tricho Cocci Plus. ...
  • Ronidazole Tablets - 30 mg. ...
  • Emtryl (Dimetridazole) Tablets 10 mg. ...
  • 5 in 1 Treatment. ...
  • Ridzol S – 20%

Emtryl Soluble  Powder For Canker in Pigeons


What is coccidiosis in pigeons?

Coccidiosis is an enteric disease caused by single-cell organisms called protozoans that affects the intestines of pigeons. ... The disease will be most severe in young birds, and can wreak havoc among flocks that have not previously been exposed.
It is caused by a microscopic parasite called coccidia that is transmitted via the droppings from infected birds. ... All birds are at risk, but growing birds and young adults ages 3 to 5 weeks old seem most susceptible.

Signs of a Coccidiosis infection in pigeons include: Loss of appetite and weight-loss. Birds sit puffed up on perches with a lack of energy or motivation. Droppings are usually extremely loose, greenish in color, and may turn very watery. Death can occur in young birds.

Several products are effective for treating coccidiosis; these include amprolium (Amprol® or Corid®) as well as decoquinate (Deccox®).
Coccidiosis prevention
  • Ensure water is clean and fresh.
  • Keep feeding areas clean and dry and don't throw food on the ground where it can be contaminated.
  • Ensure your girls have enough space – coccidiosis will take off in an overcrowded area. ...
  • Provide medicated starter feed for chicks.
    Pigeon Mycoplasma

Also a cause of respiratory infections, mycoplasma can infect pigeons in their respiratory tract. The symptoms of a mycoplasma infection are the same as those of a chlamydia and other respiratory infections so depending on the part of the respiratory tract that is infected, you may see nasal discharge, coughing, sneezing and other symptoms.

Stress is again the primary reason why a pigeon will show symptoms of mycoplasma. Therefore, managing a clean, stress-free, ideal environment for your pigeon is crucial in keeping your bird healthy.





E. Coli the greatest bad dream among the youths of the pigeon fancier. Additionally called "Youthful fowl affliction", Adeno-Coli. E. Coli is, these days, additionally surely understood with regards to people and our own (tainted) nourishment sources.

As we as a whole know, E. Coli is a hurtful bacterium which can disastrously affect our wellbeing. In this blog article we might want to caution you about the consequences for pigeons and advise you about the side effects and medications of E. Coli for pigeons.

Side effects

For the individuals who have never experienced E. Coli (which is practically inconceivable), you can perceive this bacterium with the accompanying side effects are as per the following:

Non-listening pigeons; when they don't come into the Loft.

Vomiting of the feed

Thin and vile olive-green droppings

No legitimate absorption of the feed, the harvest remains full.

Rank acrid fragrance in the space.

Be careful: After a couple of days, these manifestations will deteriorate. What's more, because of the decrease of body obstruction, an infection can be included, bringing about death.

Infection

This is awful and can be unpleasant for the pigeon fancier. All things considered, we didn't breed or obtained our adored pigeons so as to lose them before the races have begun. How does this emerge? And furthermore significant, how can one get off? Another story will be the point at which a terrible infection is included.

Reason for defilement

By keeping the concentrated pigeons, we frequently observe that fanciers place such a large number of pigeons in a space together. Another significant viewpoint is the feeling of anxiety during the times of first obscuring, the difference in feed piece and afterward basketing for the preparation flights.

Stress causes a flimsiness in the digestion of the pigeon's body. The body's very own obstruction is thusly being tried.

A minute whereby body's obstruction is debilitated, will allow the E-coli microscopic organisms to take the advantage. These microorganisms can be restored effectively with, for instance, the Para blend of Travipharma.

This item comprises of various well-working anti-microbials which dispose of the microorganisms promptly and don't hurt the pigeon. The extraordinary equation of nutrients has been included request to make the state of the pigeon far and away superior. Notwithstanding the fast recuperation, it is apparent to complete the treatment as recommended.

Infections

It's another story when there is horrendous infection included. As you may presumably know, an infection – as opposed to microscopic organisms – can't be controlled or relieved by any sort of anti-infection agents. For this situation, the main plausibility at that point is to trust that the infection will go by and battle the reactions and extra bacterial diseases or smother these with Para blend or Turbo Disinfect Oral.

This item is the cure so as to anticipate different diseases as Trichomoniasis, Coccidiosis and Paratyfus. It's a sheltered and characteristic item, which is delivered under exacting GMP-and quality necessities.

Anticipating is in every case better at that point restoring. When putting off the adolescents, you can serve them the initial 14 days an opposition expanding specialist, for example, Turbo Disinfect Oral; Forte Vita or Provibac. Just Turbo Disinfect and Travi Allicine in addition to are likewise eliminating microscopic organisms and protozoans.

[Conclusie/Slottekst–50 - 100 woorden]

MAKE YOUR LOFT E.COLI PROOF

Try not to let E.Coli ruin your pigeon stock! Be proactive, pay special mind to the indications. Act rapidly, fix pigeons that are casualties of the microorganisms and ensure infections get no opportunity to do them any more damage.

Yet, most importantly, keep your pigeons from getting to be wiped out. Guarantee their wellbeing by reinforcing their safe framework with the privilege qualified items. Do despite everything you have an inquiry with respect to E.Coli or counteractive action? We are glad to educate you.

Source Here

MEDICATING YOUR PIGEONS

Medication can be found on my other pages.

USING DROPPERS

Droppers The Name That come from using another pigeon to attract your Pigeons to Land or Come down to the Loft.
How this works is that when one see’s another Pigeon landing they all want to land (Copy Cat) Landing. Weather it is in a tree near by or on the house roof.
You can use any pigeon for a Dropper as long as you train it the correct way. If you don’t train it it a way you want it will be completely useless to you and you accomplishment and the purpose for why you have a Dropper for.
Your Dropper Needs to be able to fly approximately 30 meters and Not able to fly much at all. On a Race Day your dropper is no good if it fly’s around with your birds and it plays around if it’s a cock bird or a hen wanting to Mate.

Your Dropper needs to be release from you, where you are positioned on race day when a bird has just come home and continues to fly around the Loft as the Race Bird do if they are to fit or scared on return. The Dropper needs to attract the incoming race bird and go directly back into the loft, This is where the Race bird on the day follows your dropper.
Practice trial and error is the best way to find out if this works for you. With the combination of you Training Race birds and the Use of the Dropper will encourage you Pigeons for a faster trapping method.
I have tried several Show Pigeons as Droppers. Fantails ar the Better Dropper to use, I have use Medina’s,The American Racing Pigeon, Show Homers, and Nuns. It seems that these type of Pigeons. at the start do not fly much at all But when you introduce them to fly That the surprise is that they Fly a little better than expected.
Most or All Show Pigeons are readily Caged for life and are positioned in Show pens. Thus is why they are Show pigeons
The Fantail is the Better Pigeon to train for a dropper, They do not fly much or not at all. But in saying this I have seen them Fly for a good period of time and that differs.
The fantail pictured above are more susceptible for not flying due to the position of the head that continues to bend back into position near the tail. This makes it harder for the bird to fly, I have seen the fantail Pigeon Near fall backwards due to the strong erg to stand up straight and forcing the head right back causing them to near back flip.
This makes them a none flying pigeon and will make a better dropper. Training the Dropper is the same as training you Race Birds feeding with your Race Birds and So on.
The dropper will need to socialize with your Race Birds so the know who the Dropper is, like most animals.
Don’t let the Dropper Mate with any of your Race Birds if Possible sometimes this is easier said than done. You may have to separate it into a separate pen or have a Mate for it is a better solution to this as a pigeon mates for a life time. But is saying this a Pigeon Will still Mate with another Pigeon or Evan play around behinds one’s back.
While Feeding with your race birds nothing has changed you may want not to release the dropper out when releasing your race birds out for a fly around the Loft. So hold him/Her back release all your youngsters out.
When you are ready for your birds to come in after a fly or when they are starting to come down, With holding your Dropper from a distance your position near the Loft as you birds are coming into a landing flight (Patton) release you Dropper.
Your Race Birds Will see this and will follow your dropper to the Loft ( Roof , Landing Pad ) or What trapping you have. Make sure you have food in the Loft so the dropper will know to Go Straight into the Loft.
If you have 2 Droppers Be ready to use the second one, If the First one fails to attract you Young Race Birds, Remember to Release the Dropper while your Race birds are in their Landing position and are coming in.